Sleeping in A Night Train in Japan

For long distance travels, most people opt to start the day a bit earlier than usual. As transportation systems back then were not as fast and efficient as it is now, a number of people would wake up early and start the day so they may get to their destination before night falls. This may be due to the fact that most public transportation systems in the world operate during the day and not at night. Hence, for people who do not have their own private vehicles and only has public transportation to depend on, they have no other choice but to start their commute at sunrise if possible. However, this is not the case in Japan. 

Among the leading countries in Asia in terms of fast and efficient public transportation system, Japan also offers trains that operate during the night. While this option is no longer that popular among the masses due to the faster railway system that the country has developed, there are still some who opt to use night trains wherein they can sleep while traveling. This is so that the passengers can rest while still on their way to their destination; hence, they save time to go long distances.

The Development of the Blue Train of Japan

Also known as Blue Trains, or buru torein in Japanese, due to the color of the sleeper trains, these night trains are no longer as readily available and popular as they used to be back then. With the first Blue Train called the Asakaze, this night train traveled between Tokyo and Hakata early in the year 1956. Just after only two years, air-conditioned cars were added. Also called the “hotels on the move,” night trains reached the peak of its popularity during the late 1970s due to its romantic aspect. Because of this, sleeper trains were also often featured in various novels.

By 衛兵隊衛士 EIHEITAI-EISHI (Own work) [Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons

The price range for using night trains varies depending on how luxurious the accommodation would be. Probably the cheapest option would be getting just the seats and sleeping in an upright position, though this was not the most popular option due to it being uncomfortable. Most people preferred sleeping on the floor, though this cost a bit more but still remained affordable to the public. The sleeping area was carpeted for customers while there was a narrow walkway wherein people could leave their shoes. A good night’s sleep could be attained despite the simplicity of the situation as space was not cramped anyway. Pillows and blankets were provided to consumers so they no longer had to bring their own for added comfort.

For those who can afford more, they may also opt to get shared cabins with a single room or twin rooms that were being offered by certain night trains. These rooms come with bunk beds for a more comfortable sleep. For a more luxurious experience, however, people may also opt to get rooms that are almost similar to hotel rooms. These rooms offer amenities such as en-suite showers, though they will, of course, be more expensive in comparison to the other options.

Cassiopeia and Twilight Express: What Used to Be the Popular Night Trains in Japan

Back when night trains were still regularly used by the masses, the most popular night train in the country was the Cassiopeia. Considered as the most luxurious night train in Japan, the Cassiopeia only offered private rooms for its guests. This night train would start its journey in the late afternoon of every second day. Its route was going up the Pacific coast and ending in the far northern city of Sapporo. The train would go through the long undersea tunnel to Hokkaido prior to arriving in Sapporo the next morning.

Another popular option for a night train was the Twilight Express from Osaka, though this option was not considered as luxurious as the Cassiopeia. This night train would take the longest train route in the country with its travel time reaching 22 hours, almost a full day. The route of this train could cover about 920 miles during its regular travel. The journey would start just before the clock strikes 12 in the afternoon and would pass through Kyoto. It would then also go around the shore of the biggest lake in the country known as the Lake Biwa. After which, it would then travel up the Sea of Japan coast prior to passing through the same tunnel to Hokkaido. It would then arrive in Sapporo just after the Cassiopeia.

The best feature that both the Cassiopeia and the Twilight Express used to offer were the private suites located at the back of the train. This would enable the guests to watch the beautiful scenery fade away while lying in a comfortable bed. These suites would usually sell fast; hence, guests who were interested in staying in the suites would have to book early. On the other hand, sleeper trains began to decrease in operation as other modes of transportation developed through the years. The construction of the bullet train, also known as the Shinkansen line, dampened the popularity of night trains.

With its average occupancy dropping to less than 30 percent, the Asakaze service that ran between Hakata and Tokyo ceased in the year 2005. Upon the month of March in the year 2009, both night trains Hayabusa and Fuji also ceased to operate. On the 13th of March in the year 2010, the daily train Hokuriku that ran from Tokyo to Kanazawa, along with its previous Blue Train counterpart known as the Noto, also ceased to operate. Other factors that affected the operation of night trains were aging equipment and lack of overnight staff. Currently, the former Twilight Express can still be seen as an exhibit in the Kyoto Railway Museum.

Sunrise Seto and Sunrise Izumo: The Only Surviving Regular Night Trains Today

Because of the decreasing popularity of night trains in Japan through the years, the country now only has two night trains that operate on a regular schedule. These two night trains are the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo. Operated by JR West and JR Central, these night trains run as two sleeper trains composed of 14 car trains coupled together from Tokyo to Okayama and then run their separate ways from there. The Sunrise Seto, composed of 7 car trains, runs to the city of Takamatsu located on the island of Shikoku while the Sunrise Izumo, also composed of 7 car trains, runs to the city of Izumo located in Shimane Prefecture. Both trains also make their stop at Himeji, which is a part of their route between Tokyo and Okayama. A stop at Osaka is only done when trains are bound for Tokyo.

Unlike the previous night trains that offer seating, both the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo do not offer regular seating. Private cabins as well as carpeted compartments, known as “nobi nobi seats,” are otherwise offered by the two night trains. There are different types of compartment depending on its capacity. The price range for these compartments can range from 9,500 yen to 17,000 yen. Facilities in these compartments include showers, toilets, small lounges, and vending machines. From all their accommodation, the nobi nobi seats are the ones that are quite popular and easy to sell out. It is also important to note that advance reservations are required for the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo.

Traveling At Night: The Timetable of Sunrise Seto and Sunrise Izumo

Only the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo operate on a regular schedule. This works best for people who have somewhere to be at a certain time. The tables below show the outbound schedule and the return schedule of both sleeper trains. One key difference that one might notice between the two timetables is the stop at Hamamatsu, Sannomiya, and Osaka. For the outbound journey traveling from Tokyo, the trains would indeed stop at Hamamatsu located in Shizuoka Prefecture but not at Sannomiya and Osaka. On the other hand, on the way back to Tokyo, the trains would stop at Sannomiya and Osaka but not at Hamamatsu.

The Outbound Schedule

Station

Arrivals & Departures

Sunrise Seto

Sunrise Izumo

Tokyo

Departs

22:00

Yokohama

Departs

22.24

Atami

Departs

23.23

Numazu

Departs

23.40

Fuji

Departs

23.54

Shizuoka

Departs

0.20

Hamamatsu

Departs

1.12

Himeiji

Arrives

5.25

Okayama

Arrives

6.27

Kojima

Arrives

6.52

Sakaide

Arrives

7.09

Takamatsu

Arrives

7.27

Kurashiki

Arrives

6.46

Bitchu-Takahashi

Arrives

7.14

Niimi

Arrives

7.43

Yonago

Arrives

9.03

Yasue

Arrives

9.13

Matsue

Arrives

9.30

Shinji

Arrives

9.45

Izumoshi

Arrives

9.58

The Return Schedule

Station

Arrivals & Departures

Sunrise Seto

Sunrise Izumo

Takamatsu

Departs

21.26

Sakaide

Departs

21.45

Kojima

Departs

22.01

Izumoshi

Departs

18.57

Shinji

Departs

19.09

Matsue

Departs

19.27

Yasue

Departs

19.45

Yonago

Departs

19.56

Niimi

Departs

21.20

Bitchu-Takahashi

Departs

21.48

Kurashiki

22.14

Okayama

Arrives

22.23

22.30

Himeiji

Departs

23.35

Sannomiya

Departs

0.13

Osaka

Departs

0.34

Shizuoka

Arrives

4.38

Fuji

Arrives

5.09

Numazu

Arrives

5.26

Atami

Arrives

5.43

Yokohama

Arrives

6.44

Tokyo

Arrives

7.08

Using the Night Train with A Japan Railway or JR Pass

A traveler can also use the Japan Rail/Railway Pass or the JR Pass when traveling in night trains. Both the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo offer some reserved seating that can be cover by the JR Pass. Hence, holders of this pass can travel overnight from Osaka Station to Tokyo Station without having to pay extra. Instead of paying for a hotel room, this service would help JR pass holders save money. However, without the pass, the ticket would cost not less than 12,180 yen just to get from Osaka Station to Tokyo Station.

Unfortunately, private cabins of any kind are not covered by the JR Pass. On the other hand, reservation and cost of special seats known as “nobinobi zaseki,” meaning “stretch-out seats,” can be covered by the JR Pass. While they may not be as private as the cabins, these seats are still considered semi-private with its carpeted sleeping platforms. These seats are also separated by partitions for a little bit of privacy.

Tourists and other holders of JR Pass may find reserving a seat on the night trains a bit challenging. Tickets sell out pretty quickly a month before departure and getting a ticket might be a bit hard due to high demand. Reserving seats can only be done within the country via face-to-face or phone call. Unfortunately, night train seats cannot be reserved online. Therefore, probably the best way to reserve a night train seat using a rail pass is if one would be in Japan for at least 30 days.

Base fare can be shouldered by the JR Pass while the lodging fee and the “limited express” fee cannot. Basically, the pass can cover about 10,000 yen to 20,000 yen in terms of discount, which is already a big deal for travelers who have a tight budget. A supplemental fee may also not be charged if one is only getting a normal night train seat or a bare minimum carpeted area. Still, it is important to note that these fees are subject to change without prior notice so it would be best check the prices and conditions beforehand.

Cruise Trains: Similar to the Regular Night Trains in Japan

While there are no longer that many night trains that operate on a regular schedule, a new type of night train was introduced called “cruise trains.” Similar to night trains, these cruise trains also have private cabins and compartments for guests. However, instead of just transporting travelers from one place to another, cruise trains make round trips that could last from two to four days. These trains are also highly luxurious and expensive, but the experience is something else altogether.

The first cruise train introduced in Japan is the Seven Stars in Kyushu operated by the Kyushu Railway Company. Debuting in the year 2013, this cruise train begins and ends its journey at Hakata Station located in Fukuoka. It travels to the east coast of Kyushu and passes through Miyazaki and Kagoshima. It then returns by passing by Aso Volcano and Yufuin, which is a hot spring resort. Every private cabin in the cruise train houses a toilet and an en-suite shower. The smallest cabin that the train offers has an area of 10 square meters, which is equivalent to a small apartment in Tokyo. The train also houses a bar, a dining room, and an observation room located at the front of the train. Because of its many amenities and the extraordinary experience that it offers, the tickets to get on a cruise train can be expensive with the price ranging from 250,000 yen to 1,400,000 yen.

There are also cruise train replacements for the popular Cassiopeia and Twilight Express. These two are the Shiki-Shima and the Twilight Express Mizukaze, both scheduled to start operating this year. Hencr, for people who wish experience riding and sleeping in night trains, it would be best to do it soon as no one knows just how long the Sunrise Seto and the Sunrise Izumo are going to operate. Otherwise, start saving money as cruise trains would definitely hurt one’s wallet.