The samue, written as 作務衣 in Japanese, is a type of traditional Japanese garment used by Zen Buddhist monks for work, particularly samu. Samu refers to different forms of physical work that are done to practice mindfulness.
Some of the activities regarded as samu include chopping wood, gardening, cooking, and cleaning. These tasks are meant to train monks to view reality as it is and accept it for all that it is, good and bad.
Monks wear samue while doing these things to clearly distinguish what they are doing from much more formal acts such as rituals, ceremonies, or meditations. These garments are typically made out of linen or cotton material and are dyed in indigo or brown colors.
At present, the samue has grown in popularity outside of temples for its uniformity, simplicity, and comfortability. As such, some establishments and groups are now also donning the traditional clothing for certain events.
Parts of the Samue – Jacket and Pants
Given its use, the samue only consists of two things – a jacket and a pair of pants. Both pieces of clothing are designed to fit the user loosely to allow plenty of room for functionality and movement.
In that sense, a lot of people also choose to wear the samue as a type of house wear. As such, a lot of clothing manufacturers now offer the traditional work clothing in other materials such as silk, denim, and fabrics capable of storing in heat.
A wider range of designs and styles are also starting to pop up to answer the wants of the public. Some popular variations include patterned, dyed, and embroidered.
Finding/Buying Japanese Samue Patterns or Sets For Sale
A lot of local department stores carry large collections of samue for men and women. For those who want to purchase their own set but do not have any plans of visiting the country any time soon, there are plenty of online stores that offer the traditional Japanese clothing, as well.
Some of the highly recommended sites that offer international shipping and made-to-order products foreigners should make a point to check out include:
Seido Co., Ltd. (https://www.seidoshop.com/)
Seido Co., Ltd. is a Japan-based store that is focused on answering the needs of the martial arts community. In fact, it is owned and operated by a group of martial artists, which makes them one of the most reliable places to buy uniforms, jackets, bags, wooden weapons, and other related items.
They currently sell two kinds of samue – the deluxe cotton samue and the chijimi cotton samue. Both items are available in small, medium, large, extra large, and extra extra large sizes for 10,800 – 13,000 yen.
Samueya (https://www.samue-e.com/en/)
Samueya is an online store under the management of Dento Geijutsu wo Kiru Kai, an association dedicated to traditional Japanese clothing. For more than twenty-five years, the company has been providing the public access to a variety of Japanese garments, with the samue serving as their main product.
Over the years, their collection has grown to include different kinds of samue such as dyed, woven, patterned, silk, and hemp variations. They also carry a selection of underwear, outerwear, shoes, shoe accessories, and other items to match their samue sets.
The prices of their products range from 16,000 yen to 33,000 yen.
Japan Store (https://www.japan-zone.com/store/)
Japan Store is a one-stop shop for all things Japanese, be it clothing, footwear, accessories, toys, or food items. They have offices in Japan and the United Kingdom, making it one of the most reliable online stores in terms of worldwide shipping.
Their standard samue sets (priced at about 7,500 yen) come in different colors such as black, blue, brown, green, navy, purple, and red wine. They also offer black, navy, and blue 100% cotton samue sets for about 10,000 yen per set.
Other Traditional Japanese Clothing Besides Samue – Kimono, Yukata, Etc.
Fundoshi
The fundoshi is a type of traditional undergarment used by Japanese men. It is usually made from a long piece of cotton cloth which is wrapped around the hips and tied or knotted at the back to keep it in place.
Prior to the second world war, the fundoshi served as the top underwear choice by all men, regardless of their social or financial status. The piece of clothing can be worn in three different ways to match the situation or user.
The most comfortable style one can choose to go for requires the fundoshi to be secured with a knot or twist at the small of the back and wound around the waist or hips. Any excess material is brought to the front and tucked under the part that acts as a belt to make it look like an apron.
For activities that require a lot of movement, the fundoshi is often worn to resemble a thong. During ancient times, this served as the common type of bathing suit for men and young boys.
At present, members of the Japanese community can be seen wearing the fundoshi at religious ceremonies, festivals, and traditional occasions.
Furisode
The furisode, which literally translates to mean “sleeves that swing” in English, is a kind of Japanese robe-like dress that features incredibly long sleeves. The sleeves may be referred to as kofurisode (if 85 cm long) or ofurisode (if 114 cm long).
This garment is often made from high-quality silk and comes in bright colors. It is considered to be the most formal type of clothing for unmarried women. Every year, women about to turn twenty wear the furisode to signify their transition into adulthood and their availability for marriage.
Hanten
The hanten dates back to the eighteenth century when it was first worn by the common people to battle the cold winter season. It is basically a short coat meant to keep the user warm through a thick, wadded cotton layer between the lining and facing.
Japanese families often have their family crests displayed on their hantens. The design of hanten coats goes through a wide range of styles including simple, embroidered, and patterned. A feature commonly seen in most hantens is the black sateen collar.
Hakama
The hakama was created by the Japanese in the sixth century by basing it on the trousers used by the imperial court of China during the Tang Dynasty and Sui Dynasty. These are traditionally worn over a kimono and secured around the waist, falling just above or by the ankles.
Seven deep pleats can often be observed on hakamas. These pleats are arranged in such a way that two can be located at the back, while the other five are unevenly set at the front – a perfect example of Japan’s aesthetic preferences in terms of asymmetry.
Umanori and andon bakama are the two most popular types of hakama.
Haori
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The Haori is a robe-like jacket that is typically worn open but may also be kept closed by connecting its lapels through an included string. It is available in two lengths – up to the thigh or up to the hip.
Happi
The happi can most often be seen at Japanese festivals. It is basically a straight-sleeved coat that comes in a brown or indigo color. This garment is usually made from cotton materials and features a distinct crest.
In ancient times, the happy served as some sort of uniform for house servants, hence the inclusion of a crest in the design. Over time, organizations, businesses, and other establishments started using the concept of the happi coat to represent themselves in different situations.
Jinbei
The jinbei, which is also referred to as the hippari or jinbei, is commonly worn by nearly all members of the Japanese community during the summer season, given its loose weave that allows for sufficient ventilation.
It is regarded as a type of house wear or sleepwear. Jinbei sets can be purchased at local department stores and may consist of a top and a pair of shorts or a top and a pair of long pants. The traditional ones make use of cotton or hemp material.
Joe
The joe serves as an important garment for many religious rituals in Japan. It follows the same robe-like pattern many Japanese garments feature but only comes in a white or yellow color. Depending on its use, it may either be made using silk or linen.
Junihitoe
The junihitoe can be referred to as the twelve-layer robe when translated into English. Many centuries ago, it served as the most complex and elegant kind of garment that could only be worn by court-ladies.
As implied by its English translation, it consists of twelve layers of robes and other clothing, give or take a few layers. According to history, the junihitoe could weight up to twenty kilograms in total.
Although the traditional Japanese clothing is rarely used in modern times, it can still be seen at several museums, tourist attractions, movies, festivals, and costume demonstrations. For very important functions, members of the Imperial Household sometimes still wear the junihitoe.
Kimono
The kimono is the most popular of all the different types of traditional Japanese clothing. Its literal English translation is “a wear (ki) thing (mono)”.
It is more often worn by women at formal events and festivals, while men wear it for tea ceremonies, weddings, and very special occasions. Some older individuals use the kimono as a day-to-day outfit.
Depending on the user’s style, the kimono typically consists of fifteen or more parts and accessories:
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Doura – refers to the upper lining
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Eri – refers to the collar
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Fuki – refers to the hem guard
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Obi – refers to the belt
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Maemigoro – refers to the front main panel of the kimono
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Miyatsukuchi – refers to the opening located under the sleeve
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Okumi – refers to the inside of the left and right edges of the maemigoro
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Sode – refers to the sleeve
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Sodeguchi – refers to the opening of the sleeve
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Sodetsuke – refers to the armhole
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Susomawashi – refers to the lower lining
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Tamoto – refers to the sleeve pouch
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Tomoeri – refers to the collar protector
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Uraeri – refers to the inner collar
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Ushiromigoro – refers to the back main panel of the kimono
Mawashi
The mawashi is what sumo wrestlers wear during a competition or while training. It is often regarded by Western countries as a diaper, given its thickness and resemblance to the item.
Sokutai
The sokutai serves as the equivalent of the junihitoe for men. It is an incredibly complex outfit which consists of a hat (kanmuri), a flat baton (shaku), and several layers of silk robes.
In ancient times, it was used by members of the court as a means to identify one’s ranking. From the highest to the lowest ranks, the colors associated with the positions were purple, maroon, crimson, dark green, light green, dark blue, and light blue.
At present, the sokutai is only used by those from the Imperial Court for enthronement ceremonies, weddings, and other very special occasions.
Tomesode
The tomesode is a kind of kimono reserved for married women. It can easily be distinguished from the less formal kimono by its use of patterns that only start at the waist and spread down towards the feet. Married guests (relatives) at a wedding often wear a black tomesode to complement the white clothing of the bride.
Uwagi
The uwagi refers to the top part of the white uniforms used by martial artists. It is basically a jacket that is kept closed by an obi (belt).
Yukata
The yukata is another popular type of Japanese clothing known for its wide array of designs and comfortability. It is considered to be a casual version of the kimono and is often worn by the local community during the summer season for festivals and at hot springs (onsen).