Exploring the Post Towns of Kiso, Japan

The Kiso Valley, also referred to as Kisoji, stretches for about 60 kilometers from the southwestern section of the Nagano Prefecture to the southwest section of the Gifu Prefecture. During the Edo Period, the Kiso Valley was developed to house some of the most significant trade routes between Kyoto and Edo (now known as Tokyo).

Due to the restrictions and decrees of the shogunate, travelers were only allowed to go through the Kiso Valley by on foot. As such, several post towns were established throughout the valley to serve as resting places.

The majority of these post towns have been preserved and reconstructed to allow visitors a chance to witness Japan, or at least the Kiso Valley, as it was during the Edo Period.

Tourist can easily reach the Kiso Valley by initially taking the JR Tokaido Shinkansen to Nagoya then taking a limited express train at the JR Shinano Line.

Exploring Tsumago (Post Town of Kiso Valley, Japan) – Wakihonjin, Kotoku Temple, Etc.

Daderot at en.wikipedia [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC-BY-SA-3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)], via Wikimedia Commons

The town of Tsumago is known to be among the most well-preserved post towns in all of Japan. It can be found along Nakasendo (Magome-Tsumago Trail), just between Edo and Kyoto.

Keeping in line with the Edo Period vibe that the local government and residents make great efforts to maintain, automobiles are not allowed to enter the town’s main street during the day. Furthermore, all the town’s power cables and phone lines are kept hidden from view to add to the ambiance of the ancient days.

The primary inn known as the Honjin that was originally reserved for traveling government officials is also maintained at Tsumago. Consequently, the Wakihonjin, which served as the main lodging of travelers of lower social classes, can also be found at the old post town.

For those who have time to spare, it is highly recommended that a stay at one of the town’s ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) or minshukus (family-owned Japanese-style bed and breakfasts) be considered.  

Honjin

The Honjin of Tsumago was built during the 1830s but gradually deteriorated over time. It was restored to its original glory during the 1990s and now serves as one of the most popular tourist attractions of the post town.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Closed from December 29 to January 1

Admission Fee: 300 yen per person; 700 yen per person (includes access to the Wakihonjin and Rekishi Shiryokan)

Wakihonjin

The Wakihonjin has not undergone any reconstruction since it was established during the 19th century. As such, it carries a genuine sense of antiquity that many tourists can easily appreciate. At present, the Wakihonjin acts as a museum and hosts daily tours that are done in Japanese.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Closed from December 29 to January 1

Admission Fee: 600 yen per person (includes access to the Rekishi Shiryokan); 700 yen per person (includes access to the Honjin and Rekishi Shiryokan)

Rekishi Shiryokan

The Rekishi Shiryokan is the best museum to go to for tourists looking to learn about the post town’s extensive history. Most of the items and exhibits it houses feature English translations.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Closed from December 29 to January 1

Admission Fee: 600 yen per person (includes access to the Wakihonjin); 700 yen per person (includes access to the Honjin and Wakihonjin)

Kotoku Temple

The Kotoku Temple, also known as the Kotokuji, dates back to the year 1500. Although less grand as compared to Japan’s many other Buddhist temples, the simplicity of the Kotokuji makes it a pleasant place to tour while in the town of Tsumago.

Hours: 8:30 AM – 5:00 PM, daily

Admission Fee: No admission fee; Donations may be given

Tsumago Notice Board

The Notice Board was originally used at Japan’s post towns as a means to inform the public of the shogunate’s decrees. Tsumago’s notice board has been well maintained over the years and still features some ancient warnings and prohibitions.

Castle Grounds

The town of Tsumago used to have its own castle aptly known as the Tsumago Castle that was demolished several centuries ago. Its former site can be found north of the town’s main street, just about 1-km away. Being situated on a hill, the castle grounds offer visitors with stunning views of the city.

Tourists can reach Tsumago by catching a bus at the JR Nagiso Station. The schedule of these buses is a bit irregular so tourists may want to consider taking a taxi, instead. Alternatively, the post town can also be reached by a walking trail that takes about an hour-long journey to complete.

Exploring Nakasendo (Kiso Road/Magome-Tsumago Trail of Kiso Valley, Japan)

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Nakasendo is known as the former route that connected Kyoto and Tokyo through the Kiso Valley back in the days of the Edo Period. The trail between Tsumago and Magome remains in good condition and had aptly been dubbed as the Kiso Road or the Magome-Tsumago Trail.

The relatively easy walking route stretches for abound eight kilometers and takes 2-3 hours to finish. English and Japanese signs are scattered throughout the trail to guide tourists along the way. Tourists can expect to pass through several households and witness some of the most breathtaking sights of Japan’s countryside.

Exploring Magome (Post Town of Kiso Valley, Japan) – Wakihonjin Museum, Shimizuya Shiryokan, Etc.

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Magome is another post town of the Kiso Valley and features a stunning stone walkway that has been restored and lined with well-kept foliage. Compared to the slightly more rugged town of Tsumago, the town of Magome offers visitors with beautifully restored structures that carry a sense of freshness and modernity.

The town is known to be the birthplace of Shimazaki Toson, a highly significant figure in the world of Japanese literature. As such, tourists can expect to come across his name at several places in Magome.

Toson/Honjin Memorial Museum

The Toson/Honjin Memorial Museum, as implied by its name, used to be the Honjin of the post town but now serves as a memorial museum to the Japanese literary artist. Interestingly, the father of Shimazaki Toson was the last one to manage the Honjin, which, consequently, serves as the birthplace of Toson himself.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, from Thursdays to Tuesdays; Closed from December to February

Admission Fee: 550 yen per person

Wakihonjin Museum

The Wakihonjin Museum stands on the former site of Magome’s Wakihonjin. It houses several artifacts and exhibits that showcase the history of the charming old post town.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Closed from December 25 to March 1

Admission Fee: 300 yen per person

Tsuchimaya Shiryokan

The Tsuchimaya Shiryokan is a small museum of the town of Magome that houses a restaurant and souvenir shop on its second floor. It mainly focuses on Shimazaki Toson, showcasing various personal items from his life during the earlier years of the Meiji Period.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Irregular schedule during the winter season

Admission Fee: 200 yen per person

Shimizuya Shiryokan

The Shimizuya Shiryokan houses a wide array of items that allow visitors to catch a glimpse of the residents that lived in Magome many centuries ago. Some of the most interesting things from the museum’s collection include clothing, hanging scrolls, and pottery.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, from April to November; 8:30 AM – 4:30 PM, from December to March; Irregular closing days

Admission Fee: 200 yen per person

The town of Magome can be reached by taking a bus at the JR Nakatsugawa Station. These buses depart the station at hour-long intervals and take about 30 minutes to reach Magome.

Alternatively, tourists can also take a 20-minute walk to Magome from the highway bus stop located along the Chuo Expressway.

Exploring Narai (Post Town between Kiso-Fukushima and Shiojiri Station)

By Qurren (talk) Taken with Canon IXY 10S (Digital IXUS 210) (Own work) [GFDL (http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/fdl.html) or CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

The town of Narai served as the midpoint of the Nakasendo Route during the Edo Period. Among all of Kiso Valley’s post towns, it is considered to be the wealthiest one, dubbed as the “The Town of a Thousand Houses” for its long stretch of residential households that have been kept well-preserved throughout the years.

Some of the main highlights of the town include a couple of former residences, a charming minshuku, traditional restaurants, and several souvenir shops. Unlike Tsumago, the town of Narai welcomes cars into its streets and no longer has its Honjin or Wakihonjin intact.

Nakamura Residence

The Nakamura Residence is one of the best examples of Narai’s typical residence that tourists can enter and explore. It still features the same designs it carried during the Edo Period and houses various personal items of the original owners.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, from Tuesdays to Sundays (April – November); 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM, from Tuesdays to Sundays (December – March)

Admission Fee: 300 yen per person

Kamidonya Shiryokan

The Kamidonya Shiryokan used to be the residence of the town’s local wholesaler. It is significantly more spacious than the Nakamura Residence and features a quaint garden within its area.

Hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM, daily; Closed from January to February

Admission Fee: 300 yen per person

Narai Notice Board

The proclamations and decrees of the notice board of Narai have faded heavily in the past centuries. Even with a keen eye for detail, it can be quite challenging to discern the Japanese writings. Its genuine ruggedness makes it an interesting structure to check out.

Kiso Ohashi (Narai River)

The Kiso Ohashi is a 20-meter long wooden bridge that crosses over the Narai River. It was built in the 1990s and designed to be parallel with the post town’s main street.

Conveniently enough, the town of Narai has its own station on the JR Chuo Line, right between the Kiso-Fukushima Station and the Shiojiri Station.

Exploring Hirasawa (Lacquer Village of Kiso Valley, Japan)

The village of Hirasawa, sometimes referred to as Kiso-Hirasawa, is located just beyond the outskirts of the town of Narai. It was developed during the Edo Period and is known to be Japan’s greatest producer of lacquerware.

There are several lacquer stores scattered throughout the village and a lacquerware museum known as the Kisoshikkikan. Although most of these places feature Japanese information, the impressive lacquerware products are well worth the visit.

Kiso-Hirasawa can be found north of the town of Narai, about two kilometers or a 2-minute train ride away.

Weather & Climate of Kiso Valley, Japan

The best times to visit the Kiso Valley depends on one’s preference in terms of weather and climate. As such, tourists should take note of the following facts:

  • From May to July and from September to October, the Kiso Valley experiences relatively mild weather that is perfect for sightseeing and hiking activities.

  • The warmest month of the Kiso Valley is August, while January serves as the valley’s coolest month.

  • The driest month of the Kiso Valley is December.

  • The Kiso Valley experiences rainfall all throughout March to October.

Accommodation Options in Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan

Kiso Mikawaya

Rating: 8.6 out of 10

Access: 13 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 5782 Fukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Onyado Tsutaya

Rating: 8.4 out of 10

Access: 13 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 5162 Fukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Fumotoya

Rating: 7 out of 10

Access: 41.8 kilometers away from Takayama and Matsumoto; 45.1 kilometers away from Suwa

Address: 2819 Kaidakogen Suekawa, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0301

Nukumorino-yado Komanoyu

Rating: 8.5 out of 10

Access: 9 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 47-2 Fukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Morino Hotel

Rating: 8.6 out of 10

Access: 9.5 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 4898-8 Hiyoshi, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 399-6101

Tsutaya

Rating: 9.3 out of 10

Access: 13 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 2012-4 Fukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Kisoji no Yado Iwaya

Rating: 9 out of 10

Access: 13.3 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 5169 Kisofukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Minshuku Matsuo

Rating: 8.8 out of 10

Access: 13 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 3221 Matsuo Fukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Pension Kaoru

Rating: 7.0 out of 10

Access: 11.5 kilometers away from Kisofukushima

Address: 10221-1 Shinkai, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0002

Hill Top

Rating: 8.0 out of 10

Access: 7 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 130 Shinkai, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0002

Komao

Rating: 9 out of 19

Access: 11 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 4898-37 Hiyoshi, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 399-6101

Ryokan Yamakanoyu

Rating: 9 out of 10

Access: 18.6 kilometers away from Norikura Tourist Centre; 19.2 kilometers away from Mt. Norikura Ski Resort

Address: 3109-1 Kaidakogen Nishino, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0302

Pension Kyokojima

Rating: 8 out of 10

Access: 33.8 kilometers away from Takayama; 48.3 kilometers away from Matsumoto

Address: 5346-1 Kaidakogen Nishino, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0302

Ryokan Sarashinaya

Rating: 9 out of 10

Access: 13 kilometers away from the Komagatake Ropeway

Address: 6168 Kisofukushima, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0001

Lodge Jotenki

Rating: 9 out of 10

Access: 37 kilometers away from Takayama

Address: 6322-419 Kaidakogen Nishino, Kiso, Nagano Prefecture, Japan 397-0302